Because we’re in Trun, and the Knights who say ‘Ni!’ was filmed in Troon castle

• Distance cycled: 0.28 + 2.36 + 18.62 = 21.26 miles
• cumulative cycling: 52.14 miles

And ‘chapeau!’ to the fabulous Elly, who survived cycling down crazy roads, walking up mountain-bike only paths and walking even further up to Tomasee, the source of the Rhine.

We cycled from our hotel in Andermatt to the local co-op (cyclemeter map), then took the Matterhorn Gotthard train to Oberalppass (cyclemeter map), then cycled down to a turnoff for a minor road that supposedly led to the Tomasee, the source of the Rhine. This was quite scary: both of us could smell our brake-pads burning! Unfortunately, the metalled road ends after about 1km, so here’s the relevant cyclemeter map. We trudged up what was advertised as a mountain bike path, and indeed saw some mountain-bikers sweating their way up. ‘Chapeau’ to them too, apart from maybe a couple using electro-mountain-bikes.

Eventually we found a painted boulder pointing up a hillside to the Tomasee. By now my left heel was complaining madly, so we stopped to think what we should do. I’d have liked to carry on but pain and memories of an even more painful descent of Goat Fell said ‘No!’. However, fabulous Elly went on up the hill to the Tomasee while I sat and watched her go out of sight.  We could text each other, and she sent me photos of the Tomasee, but until I saw her descending I have to admit I was concerned.

The return to the metalled road was punctuated every 10 minutes or so with pauses to apply voltarol cream to my heel, and ribald songs and riddles. I’ve been asked to censor these.

Once reunited with Fidel and Lev, my pains went away but Elly’s fears started again. She’s not fond of mad descents with no protection and lots of 4WWs overtaking her closely. Nor am I! I didn’t dare let go of the brakes fully, and had to stop to put on the Beanz jacket as the rain got mad.

We’re staying Cafe Olga, about 18 miles down the road (cyclemeter map) in Trun. I’m full of local beer and salad, and both of us are being attacked by flies in a local pub, so I’ll leave it here and post photos later when I have WiFi. Tschuss!.