Kurze Reise nach Wien (days 1 and 2)

Why go back to Vienna so soon?

In March, we saw an advertisement for this exhibition about the building of the Danube island. As the blurb says:

This dialogue-based tour traces the development of the Donauinsel, how it became a diverse natural and recreational area by the water, and what we as residents of the city associate with this unique space today.

Elly really wanted to go but the exhibition started on the day we were to leave, so I plotted to take us back in July. I was keen to go back for a couple of reasons: I love doing things for my wife, I was interested too, and I want to spend as much time as I can in the Muttistadt.

Day 1 (Thursday 9 July)

Here’s our travel details. (My attempt at cyclemetering the flight failed.)

modedepart timedepart fromarrive timearrive at
tram11:00home12:00EDI
flight O£34613:25EDI17:00Vienna Intl
city airport train18:37Vienna Intl19:00Wien Mitte
 U4 to Schwedenplatz, then U119:00Wien Mitte19:30Nestroyplatz

We stayed in the Henriette, our favourite Viennese hotel. Here are the very few photos I took today:

Day 2 (Friday 10 July)

This video gives an idea of why Vienna needed controls and flood defences. basically, the Danube channels meandered a lot. (The wee grey blob to the south-west is the city.) By the 19th century, the main channel was to the north-east of the city, with just what was to be named the Donaukanal skirting the city at Handelskai (literally ‘trade quay’). In the middle of this century, the main channel was straightened and running almost straight northwest-by-north to southeast-by-south. A loop, known as the Alte Donau (Old Danube) remained to the northeast of that.

So this, along with some dams on the main channels banks, regulated the Danube – but not enough. In the winter of 1850 (as had happened previously), ice-induced floods were heading towards the city. (I seem to recall reading that the river had frozen upstream, holding back water. When if thawed, it released a flood.) In any case, this year, the city received warnings thanks to Austria’s telegraph network. Despite the warnings, there was a lot of harm and danger for these floods. (You’ll see some photos later.) So ways to prevent future disasters were needed.

The idea was to dig a new channel, of course called Neue Donau (new Danube), parallel to the main channel. Normally, it would only be partially full, but when floods threatened, its gates would open so it could swallow the impending flood-water and safely deliver it south-east of the main city. I guess that this also helped smooth the flow so areas downstream had more time to prepare against floods, and so that the floods would surge less. I’d like to know what the downstream counties made of this. (Right now they are desperate for water.) The area between the main and new channels would naturally be called the Donauinsel (Danube Island).

However, this work didn’t start until quite a way through the 20th century, affected by lots of arguments over practicalities, politics, how the island (if it was created) would be used, and how it would be paid for. Here are ‘before’ and ‘after’ plans.

introduction to the exhibition

These first photos are about the need for flood defences.

The ‘Lobau’

However, there was still flood-plain near the river, often used for recreation.

Planning begins

Construction

bridges

the island, water-treatment and power-generation

it’s never finished

time to think about nature

lunchbreak

By now we were in need of a break. I’m sure you are too after looking at all the photos so far. (You did look at every one, didn’t you?)

How the island is used now

(AKA ‘And we’re back into the exhibition for more!’)

BRUCE – ADD 6561, AND 6577 ONWARDS HERE

Here are our meanderings from the museum to the island, and back to the Henriette, according to cyclemeter.

Saturday – going to Wiener Neustadt

Sunday – cruising on the Donau and Donaukanal

Monday – around Vienna and going home

A tale of two passes

I’ve doctored the numbers and a QR code so there is no point in trying to use this image for yourself.

Earlier this year I turned 60, and so became entitled to both a railcard and a national entitlement card (NEC). The railcard (image left of the mauve bar) lasts a year. It cost £80 plus the cost of a passport-style photo (£13), and will last 3 years, i.e. £30 per year. It’s reduced the cost of a journey next weekend from £95 to £60, so has paid its way for the first year already. The application process was entirely online – the photographer (a nearby Timpsons) emailed me the photo as well as providing hard copy.

To use the railcard, I buy tickets from the Trainline website or app, then show the railcard on my phone when tickets are checked en route. All nice and digital. But what about those who can’t do digital, or whose phones aren’t functioning? I’d like a back-up physical equivalent too, please.

The NEC financially cost nothing – I used the same digital photo. As far as I’m aware, it will last the rest of my life. There was some faff taking photographs of my passport with my phone and completing an online application, then about 2 weeks’ wait. During that time I was nervous whether glare on the passport photo would cause my application to be rejected. However, reasonably soon the physical card arrived in the post. It gets me free bus travel all over Scotland and free tram travel within Edinburgh.

To use the NEC, I have to pass the physical card over a reader. It’s some faffsome to extract the my wallet from my rucksack, then extract the card, then repack this stuff. I don’t always want to carry my rucksack, and there isn’t room for my wallet in my kilt pockets. So I want the primary card to be on my phone and the physical card as a backup. (Until now I’ve paid for buses by waving my phone at a reader on the bus, and for tram tickets with a phone app. I want that convenience back.)

I’m very grateful for the free or reduced-cost travel, and I’m aware my criticisms are about first-world problems. However I don’t think my criticisms are unrealistic. Or am I just an ungrateful old git?