Of all the experiences I could have in India, tonight’s meal has to be one of the wierdest. I have just drunk a MUG* of tea with soya milk and brown sugar!
*Tea in India is (almost) invariably served in tiny cups (less than 200ml, I guess) with cow milk and white sugar, unless you are nible and quick enough to specify khala chai (Marathi/Hindi for ‘black tea’) or nai cheeni (Hindi for ‘no sugar’) or nai sagar (Marathi for ‘no sugar’).

To complete the trip, my meal was

• grilled TOFU with a peanut sauce
• boiled sweet potatoes
• carrot sticks
• green salad
• millet chapati
• a blend of freshly-prepared beetroot, carrot and orange juice. (These three were my choices – I think I’ll try something else next time.)

The whole meal was organic and vegan. And there was me not believing in miracles.