So we’re now in our 9th city: Graz (after Newcastle, Amsterdam, Zaandam, Düsseldorf, Bregenz, Innsbruck, Bozen/Bolzano and Salzburg). That’s my excuse for being spaced, anyway. What’s yours? You should know we are in Gruts – they live in the high wood.

Here is cyclometer’s recollection of the journey. In reality, the tramline meandered along the Salzach and Enns valleys, before picking up the Mur valley at Bruck an der Mur. The clouds hung low over the hills either side of these valleys – beautiful – but I don’t think any of my hasty snapshots from the train will do it justice.

Neither of us have been in Steiermark before. At first sight, Graz visually lives up to its ‘second city’ status – we are reminded of Birmingham and/or Glasgow. However, unlike either of these places, the coffee-shop/restaurant right outside out hotel (100m from the main station) does great coffee, and vegan raspberry and hazelnut cake. It also sells vegan burgers. Victory for the Muttiland again!